The Story of Baan Mhi - The Vietnamese Roll
France brought all manner of new and exotic items to Vietnam during its colonization of the region, from beer to bread, carrots to coffee, but didn’t hand them over willingly. The story of how the modern banh mi came together, the sort of banh mi you can pick up today at a farmers’ market in London, or from a food truck in Los Angeles, recounts 160 years of Vietnam’s history in one single, fiery package.
In unison, the visitors bite down into the bread’s fragile outer shell. A few fire off selfies as the customary explosion of crumbs covers the table. This is how all banh mi experiences begin. The bread gives way to the paté, then homemade mayonnaise, tender ham and cold cuts of pork. Pickled carrot and daikon add sweetness, cucumber brings a cool crunch. Cilantro. Unmistakable. A dash of Maggi Sauce for depth. Every taste bud gets hit. Then comes the chili, like a short, sharp slap in the face. “Wake up sunshine,” it says. “You’re in Vietnam now.”
My experiences are pre Vietnam, during Vietnam and Post Vietnam…
I must have seen the sandwich an umpteen times with Anthony Bourdain and many other food and travel shows a decade and a half ago… I dreamt of it I had to have it … Somehow in 2011 I got to taste a proper Banh Mi.. so they said at Blue Ginger at Taj Palace .. left me a little underwhelmed.. and yes the family wasn’t impressed either..
The search was on the next opportunity was a hole in the wall Little Saigon - HauzKhas Khas Market, where I went with a dear friend.. nice food , summer rolls and Pho too but the the real Banh Mi was still elusive..circa 2018-19
Yet another adventure to the Vietnamese embassy with the dear friend again,which allowed guests for lunch on Friday at the Embassy Canteen..the food was literally grabbed from the kitchen by me as they had run out.. the drinks and beer from the fridge.. lots of summer rolls, Pho and beer and fried chicken.. but no Banh mi circa 2021-22
Cut to 2024
On my first time in Nam though I had visited it so many times before on Bourdain’s shows (he was biased to Vietnam and Vietnamese food), with Apocalypse Now, Platoon, Forrest Gump… Deerhunter I had been to Vietnam several times
In the summer of 2024 me and now not so little An (Ananya) landed late night at Ho Chih Minh City earlier known as Saigon we stayed at the Heritage property Hotel Majestic.. a fine blend of South East Asian and Parisian best defined…by the idiom Indochine…
After a late night dinner of pho and Saigon beer interspersed by 333 all light beers of Vietnam.. went to bed to welcomed by the most heartfelt heartwarming and beautiful Banh Mi for breakfast at the Hotel… the pate, the buttery goodness dribbling everyday in my chin and tshirt.. the goodness moved the earth for me ..I feasted on Banh mi for breakfast … absolutely the best ever…
Back in India… the last two years have seen the swarming of so called gourmet sandwich shops all over India/ Delhi/ ofcourse the Mecca and epicenter of almost every cuisine available in India… GK2
I heard and watched, Pete’s Deli, Kona, Dumbo, Savage..I had to go to one of them … I had to go to Kona by the people who own Fig & Maple… the reason clearly.. they serve the Banh Mi and Vietnamese Coffee… I was conned the only thing right this time was the baguette, everything was wrong, the meat was hard chunks of curried pork.. no salads no sauces and atrocious over priced Vietnamese coffee and Banh mi absolute disappointment…. Which poor Ananya paid for… now makes me want to go Vietnam or close enough.. again and soon…
What’s your Sandwich Story ….